Abstracts: Forum for Innovations

Personal Care


10:00 – 10:15 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Hair restoration that lasts
Dr. Sabine Nienstedt¹, Dr. Petra Kudla¹, Anne Dussaud², Benjamin Falk²
(¹ Momentive Performance Materials GmbH, Leverkusen, Germany;
² Momentive Performance Materials Inc, Tarrytown, United States)
When hair is exposed to everyday aggressors, such as sunlight, pollution, chemical treatments or excessive heat, it can potentially cause hair to become coarse, brittle and more vulnerable to split ends. Additionally with the growing popularity of thermal straightening treatments, consumers now not only require a conditioning agent that can help protect hair from these damaging aggressors but one which will give long lasting effects through several washes.
Momentive Performance Materials Inc. introduces Silsoft* CLX-E conditioning agent, a cross-linkable silicone with an [AB]n structure to help restore damaged hair to its original hydrophobic state. Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent helps to form a durable cross-linked network on the hair which leaves hair conditioned and provides excellent straightening with no frizz when combined with heat that lasts through several washes.
Considering these benefits, Silsoft CLX-E opens new possibilities for cosmetic formulators to formulate products providing both an instant restoration effect and a durable sensorial experience.
.
10:15 – 10:30 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Novel active polymer for hair care
Jeannine Uschmann, Mark Evans, et al.
(Inolex, Philadelphia, United States)
INOLEX, based in the United States, is an independent, global cosmetic ingredient company with expertise in synthesis and formulation. INOLEX provides innovative materials for the world's leading cosmetic and consumer product companies. INOLEX recently launched ClariSilk™ – the next generation conditioning polymer for clear 2-in-1 conditioning shampoos.
The ClariSilk™ polyester has cationic and ester groups, which are substantive to the hair and give exceptional conditioning, slip and gloss. Branched alkyl chains in the molecule provide an added protective layer and silky feel, as well as clarity of formulation. It is perfectly suitable for silicone-free and sulfate-free formulations and shows a good cost-performance ratio for the global mass market.
INOLEX performed various tests to show improved combing and detangling properties compared to standard conditioning additives. Efficacy can be already demonstrated at low concentrations of 0.2%.
In addition to ClariSilk™, Inolex launched ClariSoft™, a complete conditioning system with extra sensory benefits, ideal for silicone-free formulations.
There are versatile guideline formulations available such as gentle care shampoo, daily conditioner, detox DD conditioner and sulfate free shampoo.
.
10:30 – 10:45 | Wednesday, Hall 2
CAPILIA LONGA PPF – Programmed hair bio-printing
from the first generation of plant peptides

Karsten Lingen¹ ³, Raul Vallecillo²
(¹ mani GmbH, Düsseldorf, Germany; ² vytrus biotech,
Terrassa Barcelona, Spain; ³ novoclon GmbH, Düsseldorf, Germany)
Vytrus Biotech’s expertise and constant strive for innovation made them breakthrough in plant cell culture technology: launching in 2015 their Plant Cell Biofactories™ (PCB) Technology Platform. PCB uses plant totipotent cells, commonly known as plant stem cells, as biofactories to produce highly innovative multi-functional active ingredients.
Now Vytrus, using this technology platform and through a driven Growth Factor Control development process, has been able to identify, produce and concentrate the first generation of genuine Plant Peptides, the Phyto-Peptidic Fractions™ from an optimized culture of totipotent cells. These PPF are the ultimate responsible of the extremely high regenerative properties of totipotent cells and, for the first time, this astonishing potential can be used in cosmetics, opening a door to a new generation of products.
Phyto-Peptidic Fractions™ are therefore the first cosmetic active ingredients which are able to maintain the skin’s regenerative potential.
CAPILIA LONGAPPF is Vytrus’ first ingredient based in this technology. It is a concentrated secretome of totipotent cells from the rhizome of Curcuma longa . This secretome is rich in signaling peptides (genuine Plant Growth Factors) specially designed to create the optimal micro-environment to Re-Activate the hair growth. It represents a new activity profile for the species: a new range of bio-active compounds (Curcumin is only the 2-5% of turmeric powder). CAPILIA LONGAPPF acts as a Hair 3D BIO-PRINTER, as it produces an epigenetic reset of the hair bulb which leads to a reactivation of hair growth and regeneration of hair follicle, nourishing it at the same time with an exclusive nutritive blend.
Several studies both In Vitro and In Vivo support these claims, reaching at the end of the clinical test up to an 89% of hair loss reduction, up to a 52% of hair density increase and an average of 13500 new hairs.
.
10:45 – 11:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
ERYLITE® erythritol – A new tool for shampoo innovation
Felix Weiher
(Jungbunzlauer International AG, Basel, Switzerland)
Hair care is a subject of high importance for most individuals and shampoos are integral part of our daily Personal Care routine. We want our hair to look clean & healthy, to display regular care and to be easy to manage and style. Consequently, innovation in hair care is working on uniting these key requirements plus adding some new ones. With ERYLITE® erythritol an interesting new formulation tool entered the market, a tool that helps on a number of important shampoo features, conventional and new ones.
Jungbunzlauer test results have revealed that ERYLITE® brings strongly positive effects on the manageability of hair. This is expressed thru a significant combing force reduction when applied in shampoo formulas in low single digit concentrations. In addition, a reduction of frizz is evident. But ERYLITE® also works on the scalp. It has proven moisturizing effects that ease the drying effects of the surfactant system in the shampoo. The set of features qualify shampoos using ERYLITE® for a number of claims that consumers look for.
ERYLITE® is an INCI listed naturally occurring polyalcohol. It is produced through yeast fermentation and is thus environmentally friendly product with natural tag, fitting exactly into the sense of our time. ERYLITE® is an ECOCERT / COSMOS approved raw material.
.
11:00 – 11:15 | Wednesday, Hall 2
New microproteins for natural hair rejuvenation
Guadalupe Pellon Diego, Christina Kohlmann, Hans-Martin Haake
(BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH, Monheim am Rhein, Germany)
The trends in hair care are continuously changing and the demand for new solutions to meet these changes are increasing. Manufacturers are searching for new care additives and claim options in hair care applications. Consumers expect the best from the products they use, and are even more cognizant of what their hair care products are claiming. It is well known in personal care that the use of proteins provides additional benefits to our hair. Keratin is still the preferred protein active ingredient accounting for > 60%* of all hair care launched products containing proteins. Following the keratin trend, both consumers and manufacturers are looking for plant based alternatives to the animal derived keratin protein. This is further supported by an increasing number of consumers committed to a vegan lifestyle.
When using proteins in managing damaged hair, it is important to design products capable to reach the desired location for their expected action. Our researchers found that low molecular weight proteins can penetrate into the cortex, thus providing the prerequisite for potentially “healing” damage caused by environmental stresses and chemical beauty regimes. Only low molecular weight protein hydrolysates can penetrate through the cuticle into the cortex, whereas protein hydrolysates with higher molecular weight will either be in the cuticle or at the surface of hair.
BASF developed two new low molecular weight protein hydrolysates with an amino acid composition close to that of human keratin. Supported by manifold results from different performance test methods, their use allows positive claims in the areas of hair strengthening, sensory perception and antioxidant properties. In addition, they were found to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
*Source: GNPD
.
11:15 – 11:30 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Styling Hair – Naturally
Dr. Tom Castle, et al.
(Revolymer, Deeside, United Kingdom)
Whilst ingredients of natural origin have become increasingly desirable in personal care products, there is still a need for them to offer comparable or superior performance to the petrochemical ingredients they are replacing. Revolymer has developed the RevCare Natural Effects range to offer the formulator compelling materials that meet both requirements.
In the hair care area there is a need for a completely naturally derived styling resin that offers excellent styling performance. To address this requirement Revolymer is pleased to present RevCare Nat 100S hair styling resin that combines a natural origin with excellent hair styling performance and a superior natural feel on hair.
RevCare Nat 100S is derived from a corn feedstock using green processes. The polymer offers good formulation flexibility and can be formulated into sprays, mousses and gels without the addition of a co-solvent or the need for pre-neutralisation.
Hair styled with RevCare Nat 100S has robust hold that is able to withstand conditions of high humidity (35 °C, 85% RH) for extended periods of time. At the same time styled hair retains a natural flexible feel avoiding the ‘glued’ feel given by many other styling resins.
Other ingredients within the RevCare Natural Effects range act as natural hair and skin conditioners and as odour neutralisation agents.
.
11:45 – 12:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Rheostyl 85 L – A breakthrough rheology modifier
for naturally preserved cleansing products

Benoit Gautier, Fabienne Drouel, Yves Kensicher, Helene Pernot
(Coatex SAS / Arkema Group, Genay, France)
Nowadays, body and facial wash as well as shampoos are more than simple cleansers, they must be attractive, offer beauty benefits and follow ‘free-of’ trends for consumers’ health.
The development of Coatex new grade Rheostyl 85 L has been driven by the growing trend on natural preservatives. Parabens and other synthetic preservatives being increasingly black-listed, natural preservatives coming from the food industry are becoming more and more popular. However, development of sophisticated cleansing products associating transparency, suspension of particles and sensorial textures still remains a challenge.
For In Cosmetics 2016, Coatex launches its new grade Rheostyl 85 L to address this unmet need. Rheostyl 85 L is a breakthrough technology dedicated to be used in low pH cleansing formulas. It will allow formulators to develop highly attractive transparent formulas with all type of insoluble particles and beads while claiming “free of” synthetic preservatives. With Rheostyl 85 L, high transparency and superior suspension ability at a pH between 4 to 6 will be combined to a pleasant texture with a smooth flow.
.
12:00 – 12:15 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Concepts for actives – Where innovation meets tried and true classics
Viktoria Klassen
(Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH, Hamburg, Germany)
Der Kosmetikmarkt fordert stets neue Entwicklungen, welche den aktuellen Bedürfnissen der Konsumenten und Trends entsprechen. Das NRC-Anwendungslabor arbeitet erfolgreich mit Kunden und Lieferanten zusammen, um optimale Synergien aus dem vielfältigen Rohstoffportfolio zu generieren, die diesen Marktanforderungen gerecht werden.
Sowohl High-Tech-Formulierungen als auch Naturkosmetik werden immer stärker nachgefragt. Auch wenn es sich um zwei vermeintlich konträre Trends handelt, Produkte beider Segmente sollen häufig denselben Trends entsprechen. Die einzusetzenden Substanzen unterscheiden sich zwar in ihrer Zusammensetzung, sollen jedoch ein ähnliches Ergebnis mit sich bringen.
Betrachtet wird die Nachfrage des Endverbrauchers nach innovativen Neuentwicklungen sowie altbewährten Klassikern im Wirkstoffsegment. Zusätzlich werden Ideen zur Interpretation aktueller Markt-Trends, wie zum Bespiel „Anti-Pollution“ und „Skin Resilience“, für High-Tech- und Naturkosmetik vorgestellt. Hierbei handelt es sich um Formulierungskonzepte, die innovative Texturen mit gefragten Wirkstoffen vereinen.
.
12:15 – 12:30 | Wednesday, Hall 2
EMOGREEN™ – Innovative biodegradable emollients
Anna Mommeja, Riva Brinet Spiesser, Sabrina Mizael
(SEPPIC, France)
The cosmetics industry is today more and more concerned by the impact of cosmetic uses on environment. To increase respect of environment, different actions could be implementing at different level by a raw material supplier:
- Using renewable raw materials,
- Having eco-friendly manufacturing process by integrating for instance the “12 principle of Green Chemistry”,
- Facilitating eco-friendly manufacturing at customer level by offering as example technologies using a cold process to decrease consumption energy,
- Ensuring eco-friendly at end of life : by decrease environmental toxicity , and iimprove biodegradability.
This last parameter was too little taking into account so far. For instance, the cosmetic industry has seen the success of the silicone oils in the last decade: cosmetic brands were looking for sensory benefits but ignoring the environmental consideration. This problem is major as the use of oils represents a high % of the formulas.
SEPPIC introduces today on the market an innovative solution to offer to the cosmetic industry a new range of oils, able to combine both sensoriality & sustainability.
EMOGREEN™ is a new range of alkanes, 100% bio-sourced and readily biodegradable. This new range of oils is obtained by an innovative distillation and purification patented process giving a high purity level and excellent tolerance.
EMOGREEN offers many advantages:
- Easy to formulate ( liquid, transparent, odorless)
- Inert in formulation (compatible with all type of ingredients and over a wide pH range)
- Unique sensory universe
- Worldwide compliance
- Affordable price
- Suitable for versatile applications in skin and hair care, make-up, sun care, cleansing.
For SEPPIC, the development of this new range of ingredients complies with a responsible approach on the long term and meets the requirements of its customers and consumers in terms of environment and health.
.
12:30 – 12:45 | Wednesday, Hall 2
The diversity of thickening agents: Performances, qualities and interactions
Dr. Carsten Dietz
(Cosphatec, Hamburg, Germany)
Thickening agents are used in nearly all cosmetic formulations. Their influence to the stability and sensory of the formulation is high but frequently asked questions are: Why are Xanthan Gums often used? Are there alternatives? What is the difference between a low cost and high performance thickening agent? Is it vegan?
We will give answers to all these questions and show how our new Cosphaderm® KG (Konjac gum) can be used to create new innovative formulations like facial masks without wipes and jelly elastic soaps.
.
12:45 – 13:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Formulating emulsions containing electrolytes & particulates
using a novel polymer for personal care application

Anne Thomasson
(SOLVAY NOVECARE, Aubervilliers, France)
A new hydrophobically-modified alkali-swellable polymer aims to address the challenge of stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions that contain electrolytes (e.g. actives) and particulates, such as colour pigments and inorganic UV filters. This polymer, which is supplied in liquid form for ease of use, exhibits effective stabilization of o/w emulsions, electrolyte tolerance and particulate suspending ability. Formulations stabilized with this polymer leave a unique, velvety skin feel highly suitable for daily use skin care products.
.
14:30 – 14:45 | Wednesday, Hall 2
A natural emollient for skin care
Nuria Marimon¹, Pilar Castán¹, Neus Subirats¹, Claudia Teubner², Sergej But², et al.
(¹ Kao Corporation S.A., Barcelona, Spain; ² Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH, Germany)
Today’s personal care market is highly linked to products categorized by the absence of ingredients like ethoxylates, sulphates, silicones, preservatives, etc. The source from where the raw materials are obtained is also important to consider, highlighting products derived from natural resources. As a consequence of such trends, formulations with a reduced number of ingredients are being better introduced into the market as only necessary and high-quality ingredients are incorporated in the formulation. For all this purposes, natural and multifunctional products are gaining a great consideration into the market as they allow creating exclusive and high quality formulations.
EXCEPARL® LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate), developed by Kao Chemicals Europe, is a natural ingredient obtained from renewable sources, 100% active, biodegradable, an easy to handle and cold processable liquid. This product is currently being used as a thickener in cleansing products which allows reducing the amount of NaCl especially in SLES-free formulations. Nonetheless, in the last studies it has been seen that EXCEPARL® LM-LC is not only an excellent thickener but it also can be used as an EMOLLIENT in skin care formulations as it fulfills all requirements an emollient has, pointing out the moisturizing property, good spreadability and even solubility properties. For this last feature, it has been tested that EXCEPARL® LM-LC has potential abilities to solubilize the most critical UV-filters with higher solubilizing capacities than other common emollients.
In conclusion, EXCEPARL® LM-LC is a promising product with multifunctional properties that allows including several benefits in a single formulation. It provides moisturization, same spreadability as other used emollients and good solubility for ester oils and UV filters. Moreover, it has the additional value that, due to its natural source and composition, it is a useful candidate to be incorporated in sustainable formulations, with new and high potential benefits for the skin care market.
.
14:45 – 15:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Pollution protection – Models for assessing efficacy of hair care ingredients
Dr. Xin Qu, Bernice Niu
(Ashland Inc., Shanghai Technical Center, Shanghai, China)
Originating in Asia, pollution protection (PP) is now a worldwide cosmetic market. A number of models exist to substantiate skin care cosmetic claims, but few if any exist to support pollution protection of hair. In actuality, hair is more vulnerable to pollution damage than skin in that it has more surface area and is primarily composed of keratin, a dead tissue with no mechanism for self-repair. Ashland has completed work on a new in vitro model that uses cigarette smoke to simulate air pollution. As tryptophan (Trp) is one indicator of overall hair protein, its level is measured by fluorescence spectrophotometer with an emission peak of approximately 330 nanometers. Test results indicate that five hours of smoke exposure will degrade virgin hair surface protein up to 10%, while bleached hair protein will degrade 4%. In addition to tryptophan, other parameters, such as dry/wet combing force, surface hydrophobicity and morphology of hair are examined before and after smoke exposure. Several hare care ingredients and polymers were studied by this model for pollution protection of hair. Both rinse-off and leave-on products containing these ingredients were tested. Compared to a blank, and placebo, these cosmetic ingredients help to decrease hair protein damage after smoke exposure and demonstrate efficacy in pollution protection.
.
15:00 – 15:15 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Silicones as materials with potential to reduce pollution particle adhesion on skin
Jean-Luc Garaud¹, Marc Eeman¹, Isabelle Van Reeth², Paul Pretzer³, Len Petroff³
(¹ Dow Corning Europe S.A., Seneffe, Belgium; ² Dow Corning China Holding Co. Ltd., Shanghai, China; ³ Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, United States)
When talking about pollution, consumers are regularly exposed to “scary signals” that raise their awareness of the associated issues. Recent science revealed the impact of pollution on skin, most specifically skin aging. A nature-inspired approach led to identifying a new route to reducing the adhesion of carbon-based particles, which could be expected to lower the associated detrimental effects on skin. Particle adhesion performance was first assessed using an internally developed in-vitro screening test method (previously published).
New in vitro data was generated, using a more advanced protocol with conditions mimicking further real pollution exposure conditions: a carbon black particles suspension in air was used to expose the tested candidates and collagen was replaced with animal skin as a substrate. The corresponding results confirmed the trends previously observed with the screening method.
In addition, a reduction in particle adhesion was also obtained in vivo (forearms), delivered from both oil-in-water and water-in-oil formulated systems.
Silicone technologies providing a reduction in carbon particle adhesion in vivo when incorporated into a cosmetic formulation were identified. An associated mechanism was proposed, leading to a lotus-like effect not requiring the use of solid particulates in the formulation, thus avoiding potential issues in terms of sensory, undesirable visual appearance on skin or dilution effects. Activities to relate in vitro results to in vivo performance were also carried out. Test methods enabling particle adhesion performance assessment were developed.
The silicone technologies identified, mechanism understanding gained and testing capabilities set up may be of particular interest when developing beauty care products with anti-pollution benefits, especially targeted at airborne carbon particles, a high concern is Asian cities and a growing concern in Western cities.
.
15:15 – 15:30 | Wednesday, Hall 2
How to fight the consequences of pollution on skin?
Caroline Marlier, Romain Reynaud, Amandine Scandolera, Hanane Chajra
(Givaudan)
Environmental air is polluted by particulate matters coming from human activities such as industrialization, urbanization, traffics…. Inhalation of polluted air containing harmfull particule matters (PM5 and PM10) and ozone, was associated with health concerns leading to mortality in severe cases (asthma…). It has been also demonstrated that pollution alters skin properties with a disruption of skin barrier integrity associated or not with eczema leading to a deleterious effect on the overall well-being sensations. Indeed, people living in polluted air have dull skins, lacking of radiance, redness and a tired look with prononced dark circles. In fact, skins exposed to pollution are the sites of inflammation (expression of IL-1, stress oxidant responses (production of reactive oxygen species…) but also the site of stress hormones expressions, and especially the cortisol. Chronic expression of cortisol induces significant alteration in skin integrity. To treat such skin conditions, we have shown that by acting on specific neuropeptides or hormones we were able to detoxify the skin leading to an overall improvement of the skin condition. The efficacy was tested on women living in a polluted area, with high levels of PM10 and ozone. The results of the study demonstrated an improvement in skin radiance, an improvement of skin color, a reduction of skin redness, as well as a complete recovery from a tired look after one month.
.
15:30 – 15:45 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Skin Care: New polyurethane-based shielding technology against external aggressors
Mélanie Dick, Martin Krause
(Covestro AG, Leverkusen, Germany)
Urban lifestyle such as stress or fatigue has, on one side, an impact on skin, but on other side, environmental factors such as UV radiation and air pollution are responsible for an accelerated skin ageing and cause 90% of visible signs. Recently the consumer awareness of the harmful effects of air pollution on the skin has been growing. In the last few years we have observed a global rise in the number of cosmetic products claiming “anti-pollution” protection.
Three formulation strategies for developing such products do exist: washing away, protecting or repairing. Cleansing products only remove pollutants that adhere to the skin but do not avoid skin damages. Until now, the main strategy is healing the skin by enhancing beauty functions e.g niacinamide restores skin barrier, antioxidant agents and anti-aging agents and such as several vitamins reduce wrinkle depth and the appearance of age spots while moisturizing agents rehydrate the skin. Another strategy, less used nowadays, is to protect the skin by using a barrier ingredient, such as a polymeric film former.
This paper will present innovative technology based on polyurethane film former which is able to protect skin from air pollution damages. This technology provides a barrier to the skin reducing the adhesion and adsorption of pollutants (e.g PM2.5) and avoiding thus direct skin contact.
.
15:45 – 16:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Ward off pollutants from the skin
Ralf Gantner, et al.
(Lipotec SAU, Barcelona, Spain)
Premature skin aging, irritation or allergies are associated, among other things, with the exposure to pollutants, which trigger the generation of oxidative stress and thus protein and DNA damage as well as lipid peroxidation.
POLLUSHIELD™ functional ingredient is a combination of a polymer with metal chelating properties and a powerful antioxidant that scavenges free radicals, that provides a barrier between the skin and pollutants as well as boosts the antioxidative defence of the skin.
An in vivo test performed on female volunteers that applied a cream containing 5% POLLUSHIELD™ functional ingredient for 30 days and were regularly exposed to air pollution showed lower levels of heavy metals penetration in the epidermis and a greater antioxidative capacity of the skin.
An additional study also demonstrated the efficacy of the ingredient in easing the removal of microparticles from skin surface.
.
16:15 – 16:30 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Sensory kaleidoscope – Making skin feel visible
Julia Sauer, Susann Wiechers
(Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH, Essen, Germany)
Evonik’s Personal Care Business Line has developed a new tool for formulating skin care products with targeted sensory properties: the Sensory Kaleidoscope.
The skin feel of a cosmetic formulation is one of the main factors influencing consumers’ purchase decisions and loyalty to care products. The novel interactive Sensory Kaleidoscope tool offers the opportunity to develop a product with the desired skin feel by taking Evonik’s emulsifier experience to a whole new level of sensation. It combines the profound knowledge of processing cosmetic leave-on formulations with in-house sensory evaluation and sound statistical analysis. The tool allows users to explore the skin feel from different perspectives, displaying the versatility of Evonik’s well-established emulsifier portfolio. The tool focusses on both O/W and W/O emulsifiers, two examples being the organomodified silicone emulsifier ABIL® Care XL 80 or the polyglyceryl-based emulsifier ISOLAN® GPS. It is accompanied by a set of sample formulations that turn the skin feel in the various sensory areas into a tangible experience, covering a variety of different application technologies like creams and sprays.
Sensory Kaleidoscope depicts how making certain changes to the formulations can broaden the sensory spectrum and therefore facilitates the development of new products with specific sensory properties by making the process more direct, interactive, and easier. With the Sensory Kaleidoscope you can cover the latest sensory trends for future product developments.
Try the tool. Feel the sensation. Create new ideas.
.
16:30 – 16:45 | Wednesday, Hall 2
From consumers to concepts
Caroline Ploton
(DSM)
Overall, the global awareness and importance of sun protection is increasing, however skin cancer rates are still rising each year; creating a sun care paradox. This is in a time when the protection performance of sun care products has dramatically improved, with most brands now providing factors of 30 – 50, which is sufficient for all types of users globally. However, consumers do not use the sufficient amount, do not reapply sun protection often enough or even do not use sunscreens at all.
To understand these consumer barriers, as well as their expectations towards the use of cosmetic products, DSM believes and invests in uncovering real consumer insights. At DSM, we believe our approach is different to other players in the market: we go deep in topics and discussions to uncover the “why” behind the behaviors, needs and attitudes. Indeed consumers continue to change and cosmetic producers need to understand in depth their needs to develop products that encourage them to purchase or in certain situations, even create new consumer behaviors.
This provides the sun care industry with a unique insight; allowing us to better understand the solutions to getting consumers to start using, or use more sun care products, identify key regional differences and trends and develop concepts that strive for better daily usage focusing on consumers’ expectations in terms of sensory and formats.
.
16:45 – 17:00 | Wednesday, Hall 2
Beraca’s benefit sharing program – Example on the Beracare BBA bio-behenic active
Daniela Azevedo¹, Christelle Graizeau²
(¹ Beraca International Europe, Roissy-CDG, France;
² CRM International – Clariant Group, Puget-sur-Argens, France)
Beraca, a global leading manufacturer of natural and organic ingredients from the Brazilian biodiversity, has a large experience on benefit sharing programs. Beraca transforms seeds, fruits and fruit byproducts, harvested by local families, into oils, butters and exfoliants. Its benefit sharing actions comply with the Nagoya protocol requirements.
A project was developed with the Copedic cooperative, in the north of Breves, at the Marajo Island, state of Para in Brazil. They supply Beraca with pracaxi seeds, used to develop one of the main actives of Beraca’s portfolio, the Beracare BBA – Bio-Behenic Active System. The aim is to give an overview on the Nagoya Protocol on access and benefit sharing (ABS), its application in Germany and Brazil, and to present the example of benefit sharing with the Copedic cooperative, as well as the active ingredient developed from the seeds purchased.
In March 2014, the European Parliament approved the Regulation on ABS. In Germany, the EU legislation is supplemented from July 1, 2016 with an Act. Brazil has signed, but not ratified the Nagoya protocol. It has a local law in the same scope. Beraca has a large experience in applying for authorizations with the local competent authority, the CGEN. It is the 3rd main company in Brazil in number of authorizations: more than 60 on scientific projects and more than 40 on bioprospecting and technological development.
Beraca has, since 2000, a socio-biodiversity enhancement program that aims to develop the sustainable use of non-timber resources by the people living in the Amazon region, consequently preserving the forest. Copedic is a cooperative of harvesters and the partnership with Beraca started in 2010. In 2016, there are 40 members and more than 150 other associates. Each 1,5 dollars invested in non-wood resources took 4,5 dollars in illegal timber activities (USP and Columbia research).