Abstracts: Forum for Innovations

Personal Care


10:00 – 10:15 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Coacervates in Iselux® sulfate-free cleansers
give excellent dilution-deposition conditioning

Dr. Tony Gough
(Innospec Ltd, Ellesmere Port, United Kingdom)
Many 2-in-1 shampoos on the market rely on the coacervate phenomenon to deliver cationic polymers and high molecular weight silicone to the hair for effective conditioning in the wet and dry states. Nearly all of these shampoos are based on systems containing alkyl ether sulfates. However, there is a growing trend of moving to ‘sulfate-free’ cleansers due to perceived benefits of these over sulfate-surfactant based systems. Innospec’s Iselux® (sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate) is a high-performing ‘sulfate-free’ surfactant which is becoming increasingly popular with formulators globally for use in sulfate-free shampoos, body washes and shower gels, etc. We will present results demonstrating that Iselux® systems containing conditioning cationic polymers and high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane can form effective coacervates and give good deposition.
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10:15 – 10:30 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Maximize performance, minimize components with NINOL CAA:
A green ingredient to re-think your hygiene formulations

Lucie Maisonneuve
(Stepan Europe, Voreppe Cedex, France)
NINOL® CAA (INCI: Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide) is a novel, DEA-free, 100% actives, naturally derived nonionic surfactant. It is a key for hygiene formulations optimization thanks to its multiple benefits. In surfactant systems solutions, NINOL® CAA enables the solubilization of fragrances usually known as difficult to incorporate. At reduced use levels, this nonionic surfactant provides superior viscosity building performance and comparable foam stabilization to traditional amides and betaines. Regarding tolerance, it shows superior skin compatibility and reduces the skin denaturation induced by anionics. Consequently, NINOL® CAA is a replacement for many ingredients, giving the way to simplified chassis with no compromise on the performance & aesthetics of the formulation.
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10:30 – 10:45 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Polyaldo™ 10-1-CC: The best of both worlds
Michael Lützeler¹, Dr. Christoph Kolano¹, Victor Low², Thomas Willers³, Stefan Benn³
(¹ Lonza Ltd, Basel, Switzerland; ² Lonza Consumer Care, South
Plainfield, United States; ³ KRÜSS GmbH, Hamburg, Germany)
The surfactant market has shown continued growth of novel chemistries, with opportunities for alternative green technologies in vogue today. At the same time consumers’ expectations are fast-acting, mild and sustainable products without compromising on good performance. Polyglyceryl esters represent an imaginative and consumer relevant solution for personal care products. Polyaldo™ 10-1-CC (INCI: polyglycerin-10 caprylate/caprate) is the latest development of our polyglyceryl esters technology platform, and has been shown to help support superb foam build and structure while providing very low to no irritation in cleansing systems. In this presentation, we will show you more detailed product benefits and reasons why this product is well-suited for applications where mildness and performance is needed. The results will be supported by relevant data, guide formulations and underlying performance tests. With this latest development we continue to inspire formulators and excite consumers.
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10:45 – 11:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
The anti-pollution effect of phyto-chemicals isolated from cedar buds
Ute Wollenweber¹, Paula Lennon²
(¹ Gattefosse Deutschland GmbH, Bad Krozingen, Germany;
² Gattefosse SAS, St. Priest, France)
Urban areas are increasingly producing more pollution which has become a growing concern. Health is directly affected by toxins and fine particles (PM 2.5) which penetrate our organism and pile up in internal organs. The skin, as the outer barrier to environment, is particularly impaired because fine particles are 20 times smaller than human pores and can easily penetrate the stratum corneum.
Toxins and pollution as environmental factors in combination with sun exposure cause 90% of visible aging in skin and hair.
Some characteristics of typical urban skin are dehydratation/dryness, slow skin turnover and depletion of important antioxidants such as vitamin E. The complexion becomes dull with rough patches and dark spots.
The importance of pollution implications on our health has stimulated the launch of an increasing number of cosmetics to protect our skins from pollution.
There are two approaches that are both necessary to defend against pollution: Detoxification and restoration of a fully efficient barrier function.
Indeed, pollution has a cascade effect on the skin’s barrier function, leaving it damaged and unable to play its protective role. By restoring its integrity, the skin regains capacity to defend itself and prevent pollution from entering the deeper layers.
In this study, the anti-pollution effect of phytochemicals isolated from cedar buds has been investigated. It will be shown that a specific diterpenoid, isopimaric acid, is of particular interest due to its capability to accelerate cell renewal throughout the epidermis and repair damage to the stratum corneum. The evaluation, carried out on 3D cell culture models, skin biopsies and using clinical evaluation, demonstrates major potential for treatment of urban skins.
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11:00 – 11:15 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Enzymatic surfactants synthesis and their formulation in facial cleanser
Matthieu Ramette¹, Marlene Gaillard²
(¹ Chimex, Le Thillay, France; ² Huntsman, Everberg, Belgium)
Enzymatic biocatalysis offers a green chemistry chloride free alternative to the amino acid-based surfactants chemical production. Conventional and unconventional conditions were screened and performance of the synthesized product was evaluated and compared to commercially available product.
Several industrial enzymes, derivative substrates, conventional and unconventional solvents and reaction parameters were screened and scaled-up. Products were identified by H-NMR and APCI Mass + ADC Corona. Surface tension and foam volume was characterized and facial cleanser formulations were prepared for stability control.
Best performance was achieved using sulfolane, methyl-glycine ester, ethyl-laurate with Lipase Cal B Lipozyme 435R, leading to 95% molar conversion of derivatives glycine in 5 h at 60°C. A mixture of N-lauroyl-(mono)-(di)-(tri)-glycinates was formed with a ratio of respectively 25%, 60% and 15%. Synthesized product provides similar surface tension but exhibits higher foam volume in different conditions compared to commercially available product. It can be used to formulate stable facial cleanser with different texture than the traditional product.
Laboratory feasibility was demonstrated and the productivity increased, but the reaction has to be further optimized to challenge the industrial chemical pathway. The final product gives high foam performances with a different texture in cosmetic formulation when compared to traditional product.
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11:15 – 11:30 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Anti-pollution – protecting hair and skin against negative environmental influences
Ute Slotta
(AMSilk GmbH)
Die ständig steigende Luftverschmutzung – zum Beispiel durch Feinstaub, Schwermetalle und Ruß – stellt weltweit insbesondere in Großstädten wie Delhi, Peking oder Shanghai ein immer größer werdendes Problem für die Gesundheit dar. Die Haut des Menschen steht diesen Umwelteinwirkungen oft schutzlos gegenüber. Obwohl diese Situation schon länger bekannt ist und viele politische Maßnahmen ergriffen werden um das Problem anzugehen, rücken Hautschutzprodukte vor Umweltverschmutzung erst seit kurzem in den Fokus der Entwicklung.
Die Haut, als größtes Organ des Menschen, wird insbesondere durch Luftschadstoffe oder durch hautreizende Substanzen stark belastet. Folge davon können Pigmentflecken, Störungen der Hautbarriere, Schädigung des Hautgewebes und Beschleunigung der Hautalterung bis hin zum Auftreten von Allergien oder Ekzemen sein.
Als Grundpflege sollte die Haut vorbeugend mit Cremes oder Fluiden geschützt werden, um die Aufnahme von Reizstoffen zu verhindern. Der innovative Inhaltsstoff Silkgel bildet darüber hinaus einen atmungsaktiven, proteinbasierten Schutzfilm auf der Haut aus. Durch diesen Schutzfilm wird die Haut nachweislich vor externen Einflüssen wie Reizstoffen, Bakterien oder anderen Schadstoffen geschützt. Konventionelle Hautschutzcremes nutzen häufig Fette, Wachse, Silikone oder Polyacrylate um diesen Effekt zu erzielen. Allerdings bilden diese eher ungeeigneten Substanzen einen okklusiven (wasserundurchdringlichen Film) und senken somit den transepidermalen Wasserverlust (TEWL). Dadurch verliert die Haut augenscheinlich in der Tat weniger Feuchtigkeit. Jedoch fehlen dadurch unter anderem wichtige Signale, so dass körpereigene Substanzen, welche die Haut geschmeidig und gesund halten (wie zum Beispiel Ceramide), nicht mehr nachproduziert werden.
In vivo-Studien mit dem Inhaltsstoff Silkgel konnten belegen, dass die Seidenproteine exzellent hautverträglich sind und keinerlei Sensibilisierungsreaktionen hervorgerufen werden. Die Haut wird des Weiteren nicht nur vor Luftverschmutzung, sondern auch effizient vor häufig vorkommenden Reizstoffen, wie Laugen, Säuren oder Detergenzien geschützt. In Kombination mit Pflegesubstanzen entsteht somit eine perfekte nicht-okklusive Körperpflege, welche die Haut schützt und trotzdem die körpereigene Hautregeneration nicht beeinträchtigt. Von der Natur inspirierte, funktionelle Polypeptide sind so auch als Inhaltsstoffe für innovative Hautpflege- und Hautschutzprodukte (z. B. im Bereich Arbeitsschutz) ideal geeignet.
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11:45 – 12:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
The next generation of anti-ageing: sulfur-containing actives
Britta Arendes
(Active Concepts Srl, Bareggio, Italy)
Sulfur biology is an untapped, relatively undiscovered sector of cosmetic science, holding potential for novel anti-ageing claims. Culturing of the extremophile plankton, Chlorobium tepidum, using supplemented sulfur rich growth media, allows for the extraction of specific sulfide donors. Without inducing cellular death, or overstimulating cell production, these sulfide donors are capable of suspending cells in a semi-permanent, drawn out stage of rest. For skin that defies ageing, this cutting edge technology is able to arrest cells in the G2/M and G1 phase. Holding cells in this state of ‘suspended animation’ provides a perfect solution for permanently youthful skin.
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12:00 – 12:15 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Nature know how: plant cell technology to combat IR and UV induced photoaging
Hagen Döring, et al.
(Provital, S.A., Barbera del Valles, Spain)
During millions of years, plants have learned to benefit from solar energy, but at the same time, they had to evolve to protect themselves from it. This is the case of Vaccinium vitis-idaea, a boreal forest shrub acclimatized to long insolation hours during the summer, forcing the development of protective mechanisms such as polyphenol biosynthesis.
It is well reported that ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes direct DNA alterations, and also indirect damage through increased oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions in the skin. Recently, near-infrared (IR-A) harmful effects have also been described, showing that IR-A increases cellular oxidative stress and MMP-1 expression1.
Prolonged sun exposure throughout our lives can easily overcome the skin´s natural mechanisms of protection, which negatively affects skin structure and properties leading to photoaging. Here, we describe the protective activity of a Vaccinium vitis-idaea polyphenol rich cell culture (VCP) on UV or IR irradiated skin cells, and its capacity to prevent and reverse photoaging in vivo.
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12:30 – 12:45 | Wednesday, Hall 3
NEUROVITY® – A breakthrough for the anti-aging world
Maud Chapis
(Laboratoires Expanscience, France)
Reveal your secret youth …
Rethink your vision of anti-aging with NEUROVITY®, our new eco-designed active ingredient. Combining technology and vegetable origin, NEUROVITY® is obtained from a revolutionary culture method: aeroponics of the plant Vitex negundo (grown without soil).
This technic allows the plant to synthesize compounds that it would not have produced using a traditional method of culture. The active molecules are extracted by diffusion after immersing the roots in a bath. Following extraction, the plants are returned undamaged to aeroponics.
Showing 2 majors innovations – process and biological test model – NEUROVITY® prevents neuro-aging, lightens the skin and attenuates dark spots.
1. With age, the communication between the skin and the cutaneous nervous system is disturbed, leading to skin neuro-aging: skin quality skin declines, wrinkles appear, firmness and elasticity decrease. NEUROVITY® restores an optimal communication between our skin and our cutaneous nervous system:
  • it restores the skin innervation density lost with aging (+27 % – human sensory neurons model) with no effect on young skin innervation. For the first time, a cosmetic active ingredient has been tested on a human neuron model.
  • it stimulates natural DNA repair systems as well as cell longevity proteins: Klotho: +2,6 %; Sirtuin1: +23 %.
2. With age or repeated UV exposures, melanogenesis is disturbed. NEUROVITY rebalances melanogenesis dysfunction in acting at different steps of the melanogenesis cascade:
  • FOXO3, tyrosinase inhibitor via the stimulation of Klotho and Sirtuin1 (+21% activation)
  • IL1b, activator of melanin synthesis (-65%)
  • PGE2, stimulator of melanin distribution (-33%).
A double blind clinical study confirms NEUROVITY efficacy by measuring:
  • skin luminosity improvement (L* assessment)
  • dark spots depigmentation and skin lightening, with decreased contrast between spots and skin (ITA angle assessment)
Acting on neuro-aging and skin pigmentation, NEUROVITY® promotes an original pathway to target skin aging.
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12:45 – 13:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Collagen synthesis in skin – Managing rather than boosting
Barbara Obermayer
(RAHN AG, Zurich, Switzerland)
RAHN will showcase LIFTONIN®-XPERT, a sophisticated collagen booster for a sustainable collagen buildup in the skin. The natural active ingredient is based on the leaf juice of a South-African medical plant. Recalibrating the equilibrium of decomposition and reconstruction of dermal structures in the ageing skin represents a promising concept of collagen management and paves the way for exciting applications where an extra portion of high quality collagen is needed. The active has proven to be effective against sagging skin and stretch marks and is suitable for tattoo and nail care. Join us to find out more.
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14:30 – 14:45 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Sustainable way to develop algae extracts for cosmetics:
Polysiphonia elongata, a powerful spring of youth

Dr. Lilia Heider¹, Valérie Bicard-Benhamou¹, Thierry Baldecchi², Eric Guivarch³,
Noel Guelennoc³, Anja-Martina Bohlmann¹, Frank Pfluecker¹
(¹ Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany; ² Merck Chimie SAS,
Fonteny-sous-Bois, France; ³ Agrimer, Plouguerneau, France)
Oceans are one of the last locations on Earth overflowing with not discovered fauna and flora. Specifically among flora, many algae species are still unknown, despite their huge potential for health and beauty.
Oceans represent a crucial part of Earth system supporting ecosystem. Its equilibrium is fragile, notably because marine resources, often widely exploited are not endless. Therefore a responsible use can be achieved by sustainable processes.
In cooperation between Merck and Agrimer, the development of RonaCare® RenouMer out of Polysiphonia elongata algae’s extract is the result of a sustainable management of natural resources. By participating with sea farmers in an original research program focusing on the culture of unexploited algae species, we worked on the French littoral biodiversity and the way to exploit it while preserving it. The species were genetically identified by the barcoding method, enabling to certify the algae processed into formulations. This method involves the characterization of two genes with specific sequences to a species. Cox1 gene was sequenced for the first time and its sequence was filed in the Genbank international database. The first algae extract developed from this program is RonaCare® RenouMer, settled from the cytoplasm of the red algae Polysiphonia elongata. This species lives exposed to full light and developed unique cell protection processes. Through cytoplasmic extraction, we discovered outstanding skin rejuvenation properties.
Collagen renewal becoming weaker with age, dermis gets thinner, stores less water and skin loses smoothness. In vitro tests showed outstanding collagen synthesis thanks to RonaCare® RenouMer, and in vivo studies showed that it significantly re-densified the dermis, hydrated the skin, improved skin elasticity and visibly decreased wrinkles.
In conclusion we found a responsible and sustainable way to utilize the treasures of oceans, and we found a unique performance as powerful spring of Youth with the first product RonaCare® RenouMer.
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14:45 – 15:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Dextralip ® 10C – a medium size polysaccharide targeting
anti-aging markers such as Cyclin D1, TP63 and GADD45α

Olivier Paquatte
(Safic-Alcan, Puteaux, France)
Dextralip is a medium size polysaccharide prepared by bio-fermentation (INCI name: Sodium Dextran Sulfate). It is trendy because it meets market needs for innovative ingredients prepared by biotechnology. Dextralip has been shown previously to display strong anti-inflammatory properties (inhibition of PGE2 release in in-vitro test and erythema reduction in in-vivo test).
Results of tests run in 2016 show that Dextralip stimulates Cyclin D1 (involved in cell renewal and proliferation), TP63 (called the fountain of youth because it maintains the proliferative potential of skin stem cells) and GADD45α (involved in DNA repair).
Dextralip is a white powder designed to be formulated in products for sensitive skins, in after-sun or anti-ageing products.
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15:00 – 15:15 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Validating sustainability of ingredients
Chris Sayner
(Croda, Goole, United Kingdom)
Confirmation of sustainability credentials for ingredients is becoming a pre-requisite for doing business. Major consumer companies have publicly stated targets around traceability, environmental responsibility and social accountability. The need for uniform values through the whole supply chain, combined with increasing demand for 3rd party verification of compliance, is supporting the drive for innovation.
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15:15 – 15:30 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Bicowhite multi-target delivery system: An integrated approach to eliminate dark spot
PhD Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, Gelen Rodríguez, Mercedes Cócera,
Olga López, Rosana Saldaña
(BICOSOME SL, Barcelona, Spain)
Skin pigmentation results from the synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin. Increased melanin production gives rise to different disorders such as melasmas and solar lentigenes, characterized by the appearance of dark spots in the skin.
Combating hyperpigmentation disorders consists in decreasing the melanin present in the skin either by preventing its formation, diminishing its transport or accelerating its elimination. Classical treatments combine the use of sunscreens, depigmentation ingredients and peelings. However, in order to be effective new strategies should be able to assure the active ingredients are reaching the layer of the skin where the disorder is occurring.
Bicosome is a double encapsulation delivery system formed by intelligent structures able to recognize and respond to the different skin layers, which allows for the incorporate and deliver active ingredients directly on the skin layer they should work, being a useful strategy to treat complex skin disorders, such as skin hyperpigmentation. The ability of Bicosome to incorporate actives with different physicochemical characteristics also allows for obtaining systems including more than one molecule.
Bicowhite is a Bicosome complex containing different actives that work in the different phases of spot formation. These Bicosomes reach different skin layers (in the epidermis and EDJ) delivering the five encapsulated active ingredients in their specific site of action.
Bicowhite blocks melanin formation, melanin transfer, inflammation, prevents ROS formation and accelerates the renewal of skin. The whitening activity of Bicowhite has shown outstanding results. In in vitro texts, Bicowhite was able to reduce around 154% of the melanin content in skin submitted to 10 days of UV radiation and treatment with Bicowhite. Bicowhite has also proved to avoid the damage caused by whitening actives in the skin microstructure, proving to be a innovation in whitening treatment approach.
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15:30 – 15:45 | Wednesday, Hall 3
WorléeAqua Nail – The simple way to create outstanding water-based nail polishes
Sascha Mertens, Florian Preuße, Kora Brandenburg
(Worlée-Chemie GmbH, Hamburg, Germany)
The market for gentle nail polishes that are kind to the hands has been quite limited. Various producers have made attempts and brought water-based nail polishes to the market. However, these have mostly been compromise solutions containing raw materials of technical quality whose performance are only very conditionally up to the standard of solvent-based nail polishes. This situation is quite astonishing, as the worldwide market for nail polish is booming as much as ever. Consumer behaviour has gone in new directions, posing new and more difficult challenges for nail care. Though requirements have changed, producers have still had a difficult time bringing suitable products to the market. Solvent based nail polishes continue to play a dominant role. WorléeAqua Nail is a specialized product family of ready-to-use aqueous acrylic polymer dispersions for the formulation of durable water-based nail polishes. The new aqueous acrylic polymer products are composed of a film-forming polymer, various plasticizers and coalescing agents as well as further functional additives, and they serve as the basis for formulations. This is an easy and convenient way to create nail polishes with outstanding characteristics such as fast drying time, high gloss, good adhesion and durability. Finally you can do away with strong smelling solvents and controversial ingredients. The WorléeAqua Nail series consists of five products. The base coat has been developed as an undercoating for optimal nail adhesion, while the top coat provides an upper layer featuring outstanding hardness and shine. Further the ‘100’, ‘200’ and ‘300’ versions of the new aqueous acrylic polymer add three more individual products to the selection. With their respective varying compositions, they provide differing levels of hardness development and flexibility for nail polishes and make it possible to develop specific formulas that address the needs of consumers.
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15:45 – 16:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
A mild solvent for removing nail polish
Dr. Isabelle Léonard, Marlène Gaillard, Neha Bilhatia, et al.
(Huntsman Performance Product)
Nail polish removers are often based on harsh solvents – such as acetone – which are flammable and not really caring for the nail. Huntsman – a leader in carbonate chemistry - has developed several examples of acetone free, non flammable and nail caring formulations based on a smart combination of JEFFSOL® alkylene carbonate technologies. Formulation guidelines as well as performance tests and sensory evaluations are presented.
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16:15 – 16:30 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Boosting the booster – dermosoft® OM
Ralf Kuschnereit
(Dr. Straetmans GmbH, Hamburg, Germany)
A big challenge in the preservation of cosmetic products, primarily in emulsions, is to ensure the full activity of the preservation system. Many substances are likely to migrate from the water into the oil phase, being no longer available to act against the microorganisms, which dwell mainly in the water phase. Dr. Straetmans developed a solution for this dilemma, introducing an easy to use product concept with an integrated booster. Thanks to an alternative way of boosting, we are able to offer ways to achieve an improved antimicrobial efficacy.
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16:30 – 16:45 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Influence of the oil phase composition of cosmetic formulations
on the efficacy of preservatives and antimicrobial stabilizers

Anne Gückel
(Schülke & Mayr GmbH)
The ongoing trend of cosmetics to more natural ingredients leads to an increased use of natural oils and ester emollients with a higher polarity. Therefore, we investigated the influence of the oil phase and its polarity on the efficacy of preservatives and antimicrobial stabilizers. Test results of recent formulations lead us to believe that emulsions with polar oil phases are more difficult to stabilize. A study was conducted to prove that optimised combinations using synergism and boosting effects are able to sufficiently stabilize these formulas.
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16:45 – 17:00 | Wednesday, Hall 3
Anti-microbial boosters – water solubleCHG (Cyclohexyl glycerin) & NHG (Hexy glycerin)
Yasuhiro Tsushima, Zarth Hayate, et al.
(Adeka Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf, Germany)
Preservatives
ADEKA NOL NHG
ADEKA NOL NHG can be used for cosmetics as moisturizer and antimicrobial agent with a percentage of 0,3%
  • New preservation booster with a broad antimicrobial spectrum
  • Minimally affected by pH and oily compounds
  • Higher water solubility than Caprylylglycol and Ethylhexylglycerin
ADEKA NOL CHG
ADEKA NOL CHG shows moisturizing effect, antimicrobial property, high water solubility and lower skin irritation.
  • New preservation booster with high water solubility and minimally irritation
  • The best booster for transparent and low irritating cosmetics
  • Unaffected by pH and oily compound
Adekanol GT-730
Memory Gel – Intelligent Polymer is a water soluble polymer which has urethane bond in the structure.
It associates water molecule and show thickening effect on water by forming water gel. It is used for cosmetics as gelator