Fermentation derived sophorolipids (INCI: Glycolipids) are truly multifunctional surfactants, that combine gentle cleansing properties with additional scalp and skin care benefits. Being derived from locally grown palm-free feedstocks, these biosurfactants are more sustainable and feature a low carbon emission footprint. Compared to traditional counterparts, these fully natural surfactants feature outstanding skin mildness. Furthermore, they are microbiome-friendly and help to protect the skin barrier function. These features make sophorolipids ideal candidates for novel rinse-off formulations that can advance our daily hygiene and care routine.

This talk will provide insight into fascinating scalp and skin care benefits of these multifunctional biosurfactants: Human panel patch tests haven been conducted to evaluate the skin irritation potential of two different sophorolipids products as well as their impact on the transepidermal water loss, compared to classical surfactant benchmarks. Within these tests, not only Sodium Laureth Sulfate but also sulfate-free surfactants, like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, and Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, have been included. Furthermore, human panel tests have been conducted to reveal additional beneficial effects on blemished skin as well as dandruff-prone, dry, and sensitive scalp. Guideline formulations for various rinse-off products will be presented.

In conclusion, Sophorolipids are an emerging class of innovative surfactants that are not only sustainable and in line with major market trends but also feature unique properties, that are particularly relevant for gentle rinse-off formulations.