SEPAWA Congress Kirby Lindsay
Lindsay Kirby

PureTech Scientific

Business Development Manager

Current lectures/posters

36 | Glycolic Acid: Leveraging a Popular Skin Care Ingredient for Promoting Healthier Hair Inside-Out

Glycolic acid, a well-established active ingredient in skin care, has been extensively researched for its benefits on skin health, but its effects on hair have been less studied. This research investigates the role of glycolic acid in hair care formulations, particularly its impact on African, Asian, and Latino hair types. A series of experiments, including Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Atmospheric Pressure-Mass Spectrometry (ASAP-MS), elastic modulus measurements, repeated brushing, and wet combing tests, were conducted to evaluate its effects on both healthy and chemically damaged hair.

Results demonstrate that glycolic acid penetrates the hair shaft, improving moisture retention, increasing resistance to heat, and enhancing hair softness. DSC and ASAP-MS data confirm that glycolic acid remains within the hair shaft, stabilizing keratin and making hair more resilient to high temperatures. Elastic modulus testing shows a significant reduction in hair stiffness, correlating with increased softness and manageability. The repeated brushing and wet combing experiments further reveal that glycolic acid reduces breakage and friction, leading to easier detangling and styling. Additionally, glycolic acid benefits the scalp by improving hydration and reducing flaking.

These findings indicate that incorporating glycolic acid into hair care formulations offers multiple benefits, including enhanced durability, improved styling ease, and overall healthier hair. The study supports the inclusion of glycolic acid as a key ingredient in conditioning treatments for diverse hair types, addressing concerns such as fragility, damage from chemical treatments, and heat exposure. Given its established reputation in skin care, glycolic acid’s role in hair care provides an innovative approach to improving both hair and scalp health.