Abstracts: CAT/DGK Session

Anti-Pollution – Protection of Skin and Hair
from Negative Environmental Influences

09:00 – 09:30 | Friday, Main Auditorium
In vivo Methods to Prove the Protective Effect of Cosmetic Products against Pollutants
Dr. Gunja Springmann, Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Stephan Bielfeldt
(proDERM Institut für Angewandte Dermatologische Forschung GmbH, Germany)
Umweltschadstoffe, die über die Luft auf die Haut gelangen, können zur vorzeitigen Hautalterung beitragen. Die Ursache dafür liegt in der Freisetzung von reaktiven Sauerstoffverbindungen (ROS) in der Haut, die hauteigene Lipide und Proteine oxidieren und weiterhin eine Kaskade von Hautreaktionen anregen. Die Haut kann zwischen erhöhten Konzentrationen freier Radikale aufgrund einer Hautverletzung und Luftschadstoff-verursachten freien Radikalen nicht unterscheiden und setzt Matrix-Metalloproteinasen (MMP's) frei, wie sie z.B. für die Wundheilung benötigt werden. MMP's sind Enzyme, die u.a. Kollagen abbauen und über diesen Mechanismus die vorzeitige Hautalterung fördern.
Wir haben eine Methode entwickelt, in der speziell die Wirkung freier Radikale aus Luftschadstoffen auf die Haut gemessen wird. Als Modell-Luftschadstoff wird Zigarettenrauch verwendet, der standardisiert über Berauchungskammern auf die Haut geleitet wird. Marker-Moleküle der Lipidperoxidation, wie Malondialdehyd und Squalenmonohydroperoxid werden durch Abspülung nichtinvasiv von der Haut gewonnen und mittels GC/LC-MS quantifiziert.
Es werden Ergebnisse vorgestellt, die die Wirkung der Rauchanwendung im Vergleich zur Kontrolle, dem nicht berauchten Areal zeigen. Weiterhin wird die Wirkung von Kosmetika gezeigt, die über einen Barrierefilm oder mit Hilfe von Antioxidantien schützen. Diese Produkte reduzierten die Bildung beider Markermoleküle signifikant.
Das Verfahren ist praxisnah, ungefährlich für Probanden und Untersucher und hat sich als gut geeignet für den kosmetischen Claim-Support "Anti-Pollution" herausgestellt.
09:30 – 10:00 | Friday, Main Auditorium
Impact of Different Air Pollutants on the Skin
Dr. Jürgen Blaak
(Kneipp GmbH, Germany)
Air pollution becomes more and more relevant in Dermatology and Cosmetology, and thereby research on this subject increases. Various effects on dermis and epidermis by repetitive and long-term exposure to air pollutants are described. The relevant air pollutants in this context are: ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation, various particulate matters (PM), volatile organic compounds (VOC), ozone (O3), cigarette smoke, several ultrafine particles (UFP) and oxides.
Skin aging is a well defined process and strongly associated with different pollutants, mainly UV and IR radiation. Furthermore, recent studies showed that PM exposure correlates with the development of skin diseases and in addition UFP affect the incidence of skin cancer. Moreover, inflammatory skin disorders, like acne, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are exacerbated by air pollutants.
The cosmetic industry is highly involved in this topic and a lot of specific concepts on “anti-pollution” are launched by raw material suppliers and final product manufactures during the last two years. Due to the described air pollutants, different “anti-pollution” concepts and products are necessary and specific test methods are required to substantiate the specific product claims.
10:00 – 10:30 | Friday, Main Auditorium
Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone(BDDI) – Pollution Neutralizer
Ev Süß¹, Imke Meyer¹, William Johncock², Susanne Grether-Beck³, Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann³
(¹ Symrise AG, Holzminden, Germany; ² Symrise AG, Hamburg, Germany;
³ IUF - Leibniz Institut für Umweltmedizinische Forschung gGmbH, Germany)
Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone (BDDI) - Pollution Neutralizer
Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients is introducing BDDI, the first cosmetic ingredient capable of neutralizing the disruptive effects of particulate pollution (PM) and polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). This introduction relies on a series of important breakthroughs.
1. A new pathway revealed.
Inspired by the first major epidemiological study establishing a link between particulate pollution and skin ageing, Symrise research has discovered the pathway through which PM adulterate cells. It allows a new approach for skin well-being beyond antioxidants.
2. A new evaluation model.
Understanding the precise mechanism through which PM effect the skin long term has lead to the design of a unique evaluation protocol involving standardized particles (including particles smaller than PM 2.5) and specific markers – offering an objective and reliable framework for the screening of suitable candidates.
3. An innovative solution
Based on understanding the link between particulate pollution and their long term effects on the skin, Symrise has engineered BDDI, a new ingredient capable of helping preserve the skin against collagen degradation, melanin over-stimulation and inflammation processes that are directly induced by PM.
As consumer awareness regarding the direct effects of atmospheric pollution on their skin has been growing every year around the world, the protection solutions available in the industry have been limited to anti-oxidant strategies and skin coating polymers. Whereas the first ones ignore the specific pathways of PM and PAHs the second ones are not 100% PM proof. With the ability to neutralize PM, Symrise contributes to define sharper, advanced, protection systems which give consumer solutions in their fight against Particulate Matter induced effects bringing advanced antipollution protection to an enhanced level.
11:00 – 11:30 | Friday, Main Auditorium
Counteract against Pollutants – Influence of Pollutants on Human Skin
and Strategies how to Strengthen the Biological Shield

Dr. Vera Maienschein, et al.
(IMPAG Import GmbH, Germany)
With globalization and urbanization rapidly on the rise, pollution and its effect on the human body are a growing concern. Pollution is a complex variety of chemical and gas compounds. In our external environment we are exposed to many toxic substances like particles from various origins, which are commonly classified according to their size. Particulate matter (PM) 2.5, which are particles less than 2.5µm in diameter, can aggregate upon or potentially penetrate the skin. Also problematic for human skin are polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAH) and pesticides: in free-forms or absorbed on particles, these molecules lead to inflammation and oxidative stress.
When we are indoors, we are exposed to chemicals that are released from adhesives, paints, etc., with Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), formaldehyde amongst the most common. All of these compounds may asphyxiate and dry the skin, ageing it prematurely. Other kind of environmental stress are the well-known cigarette smoke and the very controversial discussed stress from electromagnetic radiation (EMR) or sometimes called electrosmog or electrostress is generated by most electrical appliances.
In order to counteract each of these pollutants, the dermatological research established some suitable test models to investigate the biological actions of pollutants and show how topical applied substances can help to protect skin cells.
11:30 – 12:00 | Friday, Main Auditorium
Evaluation of the Air Pollution Effects on Human Skin
Pierre-Yves Morvan, Loïc Pentecouteau, Eric Gasparotto, Romuald Vallée, et al.
(Codif International, France)
Skin is more and more exposed to air pollution which has a direct effect on his health. In order to show these negative effects, we developed several experimental models exposed to pollution (gas and fine particles). Then, we tested different marine polysaccharides using this model.
The first model is human skin explants exposed to car exhaust fumes containing both Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) and fine particles. Skin treatment by car exhaust fumes during 5 hours significantly decreased by 11% the hydration rate of exposed skin. A treatment with a Marine Hydrolyzed Furcellaran (MHF) at 0.003% significantly protected by 78% the skin against the lost of hydration induced by pollution. It has an inhibiting action on pollution-induced dehydration.
The second model is 3D reconstituted dermis. Exposition to car exhaust fumes or cigarette smoke induced an increase of intracellular H2O2 production, a decrease of mitochondrial ATP production, a degradation of cellular actin fibers, and a decrease of the contraction ability mimicking ageing. A treatment with a marine hydrolyzed oligoalginate at 0.01% and a microalgal-conditioned seawater at 0.1% protected skin cells against all these harmful effects, and restored the firming effect of dermal cells. It has an inhibiting action on pollution-induced damages.
The third model is human reconstituted epidermis containing Asiatic melanocytes. After daily exposures to exhaust gas, melanin production was significantly stimulated by 59% in melanised human epidermis. A treatment with a marine exopolysaccharide (EPS) at 0.005% significantly reduced by 71% the amount of melanin in the basal layer of epidermis compared to the control. It has an inhibiting action on pollution-induced pigmentation.
Clinical tests have been performed to confirm the in vivo efficacies of these three products on human healthy volunteers living in polluted cities in Europe and Asia. Skin surface and pigmentation were measured by classical methods, and clearly showed an improvement by product treatments.